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For many men, the only white articles of clothing they wear are white dress shirts, undershirts, and underwear. They may avoid white either because it seems to be too bold a statement, they are concerned about keeping it clean, or it’s simply nowhere to be found.
Or, white can simply be taken for granted. However, a full range of white clothes has much to recommend for the contemporary gent, and the arrival of summer is the perfect opportunity to add more white to your wardrobe. Today we will explore the different ways men can wear white.
White was originally associated with the garb of the wealthy for a variety of reasons, first of all, because keeping white clothing clean was expensive in the age before dry cleaning and washing machines, requiring regular care and maintenance that was beyond the reach of many.
The good news is that today, we have the luxury of washing machines and fairly inexpensive dry cleaning, so wearing white is not limited to the rich. There may still be some situations where wearing the color can evoke class associations, which will be discussed below, but for the most part, it can be worn by anyone on a variety of different occasions.
When Can You Wear White
The short answer is summer; the long answer is that it’s possible any time of the year if done properly.
In hot weather, white keeps you cool as it reflects sunlight, something you can see from the prevalence of white clothes in hot climates, including the Middle East and India. The very brilliance of white itself makes it look its best in the sunshine. For this reason, it’s especially at home in resort-like settings. Think the Greek islands, the Amalfi Coast, and the French or Italian Riviera in July. This includes cruises, which also are warm-weather ventures. To be honest, white also looks best with tanned skin because of the contrast, so if you’re fair or pale as a sheet, you should consider other light colors that will give you better contrast. Those who have olive, tanned or brown complexions have it made when it comes to wearing white.
In Cooler or Cloudy Weather
In cloudy weather, white clothes can look out of place. The false “no-white-after-Labor-Day” rule notwithstanding, predominantly white outfits are usually avoided after summer because what looks great in August looks glaring when days are not as bright. White demands sunlight to tame it and tone it down. In fall and winter, muted hues like olive green, gray, and brown are prevalent both in nature and as attire. Follow the seasonal trend. This is also good wisdom to follow because cold weather usually brings rain and thus mud, snow, and slush, all of which can wreak havoc on white garments. However, you can wear winter white, which is an off-white rather than a pure white, on sunny December days, few they may be, usually in the form of flannel pants. I find that when January comes along, I am longing for something to remind me of summer, so if I get a sunny blue-sky day I’m putting on winter-white trousers. With global climate change, there is bound to be a 50-degree mid-winter day when you can do it. Of course, if you are fortunate to live in a climate where sunshine and warmth are in abundance year round (Florida comes to mind), you can wear regular white nearly anytime you, please.
How to Wear White
One might imagine that the basic white dress shirt doesn’t require much discussion since it’s the one white item most men own; a white shirt is standard. However, some lesser known information about white shirts can be useful to help you maintain classic style. Originally, the long-sleeved white shirt with buttons and a collar that we know today was seen as an undershirt, meant to be hidden: hence the requirement to wear waistcoats and vests and ties–anything to hide as much of the white as possible. Nowadays, we wear white button-down shirts uncovered with just a pair of pants, which our forbears would see as us going about in our undergarments. Although we may applaud the more relaxed standards of the present when it’s 30 degrees out, and we can wear only a white polo and jeans without getting looks of disgust, some of the associations of white shirts with underwear still apply today, particularly when you’re wearing tailoring or are dressed formally. When you put on a tuxedo, for example, you’re supposed to wear a black cummerbund or a waistcoat to prevent the white of your shirt from showing beneath the bottom button of your jacket. When you wear a vest, either as part of a three-piece suit or in a different color or pattern with the bottom button open, your trousers are supposed to have a high enough rise to avoid showing the white of your shirt under your vest. It goes without saying that if you are actually wearing a white undershirt, it should never be exposed at your neck. To remember these style rules, it’s useful to think of the white t-shirt as underwear, and by traditional standards of propriety at least, you shouldn’t show your underwear.
White Pants
After a white shirt, white trousers are probably the next most common clothing item in menswear, though the drop off is steep in terms of how many men wear them. Pants may also be the most difficult white item to wear in terms of keeping them clean, which could account for their rarity. On sunny summer weekends, I prefer the Southern European vibe created by wearing white cotton pants, especially when paired with bright linen sports coats. White pants are more difficult for the workplace because they do present a strong statement in their own right; however, you can make them fade back, so they almost become the equivalent of a white shirt, if you pair them with softer or more muted jacket colors like olive, brown or navy. Of course, a navy blazer, especially double breasted with gold buttons and white trousers make for a classic nautical-themed outfit. Now you’re off work again and on a boat, whether it be a city cruise, two-week cruise to the Caribbean, or your own private yacht. This is the one place where white still can evoke class consciousness and accusations of snobbery.
